Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation

Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required for this operation. Any suspected faults in the automatic transmission should be referred to a Ford dealer or automatic transmission specialist before removal of the unit, as the specialist fault diagnosis equipment is designed to operate with the transmission in the vehicle.

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Removal
1 Proceed as described in Section 9, paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally, where applicable disconnect the kickdown cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.

2 Note the location of the earth strap on the rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut and disconnect the strap.

3 Jack up the vehicle and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

Ensure that there is sufficient working room beneath the vehicle.

4 To improve access, disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and remove the exhaust system.

5 Remove the propeller shaft.

6 Where applicable bend back the locktabs, then unscrew the two bolts, in each case securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.

7 Unscrew the unions and disconnect the fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug the open ends of the pipes and the transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting bracket, and place it to one side.

8 Remove the two clips securing the selector rod, and detach the selector rod from the manual selector lever, and the selector lever on the transmission.

9 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the lever on the transmission, and where applicable, detach the cable from the bracket on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in order to remove the cable from the bracket.

Withdraw the cable from the vehicle.

10 Disconnect the wiring from the starter inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch.

11 Remove the securing screw, and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission extension housing. Plug the opening in the transmission to prevent dirt ingress.

12 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe from its securing bracket on the transmission housing where applicable.

13 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

14 Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable, securing the engine mountings to the crossmember. Recover the washers.

15 Support the transmission with a trolley jack, using a block of wood to spread the load.

16 Unscrew the four bolts securing the transmission crossmember to the vehicle underbody. Note the position of the earth strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central bolt securing the crossmember to the transmission and remove the crossmember.

Recover the mounting cup and where applicable the exhaust mounting bracket.

17 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been disconnected to facilitate removal of the engine/transmission assembly.

18 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting brackets located at the front and rear of the cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that the engine/transmission assembly will assume a steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is being removed.

19 Raise the engine/transmission so that the engine mountings are clear of the crossmember, then ease the assembly forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to damage surrounding components.

20 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.

Separation
21 To separate the engine from the transmission, proceed as follows.

22 Remove the starter motor.

23 Support the engine and transmission horizontally on blocks of wood.

24 Working through the starter motor aperture, unscrew the four torque converterto- driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access to each nut in turn through the aperture.

25 Unscrew the two securing bolts and disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace from the engine and transmission.

26 Unscrew and remove the engine-totransmission bolts, noting the locations of the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and where applicable pull the blanking plug from the adapter plate.

27 Pull the engine and transmission apart, ensuring that the torque converter is held firmly in place in the transmission housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be necessary to rock the units slightly to separate them.

Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle)

1 Reverse the procedure described in Section 9, noting the following points: 2 Before attempting to refit the engine, check that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the centre of the friction disc.

3 Check that the clutch release arm and bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease the input shaft splines.

4 Check that the engine adapter plate is correctly positioned on its locating dowels.

5 Refit the exhaust downpipe.

6 Reconnect the clutch cable to the release arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during removal.

7 Fill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

8 Fill the cooling system.

9 Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the alternator and where applicable the power steering pump drivebelt(s).

10 Adjust the throttle cable.

    See also:

    Exhaust system - renewal
    1 The layout of the exhaust system varies considerably according to model and engine. All except the RS Turbo versions can be renewed in sections; coupling sleeves are supplied, enabling an old se ...

    Rear suspension angles - general
    The rear wheel toe and camber angles are set in production and do not require checking under normal service conditions. Of the two, only the toe setting can be adjusted, the camber angle being fix ...

    Throttle cable - adjustment, removal and refitting
    The procedure is similar to that described in Part A of this Chapter for carburettor engines. ...