General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets When separating components at their mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or similar implements into the joint between the faces in order to prise them apart. This can cause severe damage which results in oil leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in order to break the seal. However, note that this method may not be suitable where dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound, if this is being used, unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear, and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.
Oil seals can be removed by levering them out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or similar tool. Alternatively, a number of selftapping screws may be screwed into the seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or similar in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged, and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, and the manufacturer has not made provision for slight relocation of the seal relative to the sealing surface, the component should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face (unless otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a common occurrence where corrosion has set in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing fluid will often overcome this problem if the offending item is soaked for a while before attempting to release it. The use of an impact driver may also provide a means of releasing such stubborn fastening devices, when used in conjunction with the appropriate screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these methods works, it may be necessary to resort to the careful application of heat, or the use of a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two nuts together on the threaded part, and then using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off below the surface of the component in which they are mounted can sometimes be removed using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting. However, this should not be attempted where angular tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are no longer specified for the latter stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed by one or more stages of tightening through specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing during tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in noncritical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. However, it should be noted that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their effectiveness after long periods of use, and should be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on the threads of a fastener which is to be reused, it should be cleaned off with a wire brush and solvent, and fresh compound applied on reassembly.
Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily-available alternatives to the manufacturer’s special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedures described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations When disposing of used engine oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to any detrimental environmental effects. Do not, for instance, pour any of the above liquids down drains into the general sewage system, or onto the ground to soak away. Many local council refuse tips provide a facility for waste oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of these facilities are available, consult your local Environmental Health Department, or the National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legislation regarding the emission of environmentally-harmful substances from motor vehicles, most current vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted to the main adjustment points of the fuel system. These devices are primarily designed to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a consequent increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are encountered during servicing or overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be renewed or refitted in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s requirements or current legislation.
The jack supplied in the vehicle tool kit should only be used for emergency roadside wheel changing unless it is supplemented with axle stands.
When using a trolley or other type of workshop jack, it can be placed under the front lower crossmember (provided a shaped block of wood is used as an insulator) to raise the front of the vehicle.
To raise the rear of a Saloon (except fuelinjected variants) or Estate, place the jack under the right-hand suspension lower arm mounting bracket using a rubber pad as an insulator.
To raise the rear of a Van, place the jack under the centre of the axle tube, taking care not to contact the brake pressure regulating valve or the hydraulic lines.
Axle stands should only be located under the double-skinned sections of the side members at the front of the vehicle, or under the sill jacking points. At the rear of the vehicle (Saloon or Estate), place the stands under the member to which the tie-bar is attached. On Vans, place the stands under the leaf spring front attachment body bracket.
Provided only one wheel at the rear of the vehicle is to be raised, the Saloon and Estate may be jacked up under the rear spring seat, or the Van under the leaf spring-to-axle tube mounting plate.
Never work under, around or near a raised car unless it is adequately supported in at least two places with axle stands or suitable sturdy blocks.
Jacking and support points on vehicle underside (Saloon and Estate models)
A Axle stand positions (rear)
B Axle stand positions under sills (with
wooden or rubber pad)
C Axle stand positions (front) D Trolley jack position for raising front of car (on pre-1986 models, use shaped wooden block as shown) E Trolley jack position for raising rear of car on carburettor engine models only (not to be used on fuel-injection versions due to fuel pump location)
Jacking and support points on vehicle underside (Van models)
A Axle stand positions (rear)
B Axle stand positions under sills (with
wooden or rubber pad)
C Axle stand positions (front) D Trolley jack position for raising front of vehicle (on pre-1986 models, use shaped wooden block as shown) E Trolley jack position for raising rear of vehicle